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What I’m Sipping: Juggernaut Chardonnay

My vocabulary and practice with white wine is weak, but I did my best.

On the nose: floral, pear and oak. Light minerality.

On the tongue: white peach, pear, lightly tart (like a ripened green grape) on the finish. Crisp yet full.

What the experts say:

On the nose: honeysuckle, lemon meringue pie (oh!)

On the tongue: Asian pear (so specific!), vanilla bean, crisp apple

From their website: “Balanced and well-structured with just the right amount of bite.” In my humble opinion, this is why I’m sipping it! 

I have discovered a fresh interest in Chardonnay. Here’s my story.

Is That Butter?

I vividly recall my first Chardonnay.

I was new to wine, with zero clue as to what to order at a restaurant. My twenty-something peers and I clung to strict rules about what one ordered to eat and which wine paired with that meal. We wanted to show some level of sophistication, of coming up in the world. We stuck with what we’d heard from our parents—white for fish, lighter meats and lighter dishes; red with beef, heavier meats and pasta dishes. 

Like many Wisconsinites, I was at a fish place on a Friday night in Milwaukee. I followed the lead of whomever ordered first having no idea what wine was coming. We shared a toast, clinked our glasses together with an exclamation of “cheers”, and I took my first sip. 

No, I did not swirl or smell the wine. 

“Tastes like butter,” I said. I may have said “Buttah” like the Mike Myers’ Coffee Talk character I adored at the time. 

My friends giggled. I mean, we all knew wine came from grapes so why on earth would I say butter?

I didn’t prefer the wine, and found that, fairly quickly, I had a belly ache. 

Buttery Chardonnay

When I blurted, “butter”, I naively hit the mark. Since then, I’ve learned that saying without filtering is a good way to stab at wine flavors—first thoughts to overcome the seemingly silliness of naming flavors coming from a fermented grape.

Chardonnays, especially those of twenty years ago, were, in fact, buttery, or creamy in taste. Quick research of writing by the experts at wine spectator explains that, in the secondary stage of the fermentation process, malic acid, which is a fermentation byproduct, converts into something softer—lactic acid. Lactic acid is creamy. Further, Chardonnay is often aged in oak barrels, and new barrels are thought to further enhance this creamy, buttery flavor and is also why Chardonnay is described as being oaky. 

Over the years, I’ve tried Chardonnay periodically, but have largely passed it up to avoid that heavy-in-the-belly feeling.

When I’ve wanted a white wine (a choice often based on weather rather than food), I’ve gone for a Chenin Blanc, a Pinot Grigio, and more recently, Vinho Verde. I also love and strongly recommend a Wisconsin white in the summer, Wollersheim’s Prairie Fume. And I had a good era with Sauvignon Blanc, but the green pepper in that wine is suddenly so tart it makes me pucker. 

So what’s going on with my changing preferences?

Did My Tastes Change?

There’s a common progression in wine drinking that many have heard of and has been loosely confirmed in a study completed at Sonoma University. Most people enter wine drinking with a sweet white (say, a Riesling) and a lighter, fruity red (like Merlot). As we age, we slowly lose interest in the sweeter wines and move on to drier, fuller bodied wines. 

Why? Because we age. We constantly regenerate taste buds, but as we age, we lose more and regenerate fewer. Our sense of smell weakens as well, and this impacts what we taste. This lessening in senses makes some flavors more interesting rather than overwhelming. It’s similar to how we don’t like coffee when we are young but evolve to needing the bitter brew.

I have followed the typical wine progression dutifully, especially with reds, working my way from a Chianti or Merlot to a Pinot Noir then on to Cabernets.

When I researched, I discovered that Chardonnay is at the tail end of the full-bodied list for whites. No wondered I struggled with it on the front end of my experience. 

Chardonnay Has Changed, Too

As I dug in on my reading, I discovered that it has been on trend for wine makers to alter the fermentation of Chardonnay. Juggernaut Chardonnay allows 86% of the fermentation process to occur in newer French and American Oak barrels, but finishes in stainless steel, creating the full-bodied wine that I prefer while limiting the creaminess. No wonder I loved it.

 There are still plenty of buttery Chardonnays available (try The Arsonist), but if you’ve avoided Chardonnay as I had, now could be a good time to give some labels a chance. You can also find Chardonnay labels that indicate “unoaked”, meaning the entire fermentation process happened in a steel barrel. But it does lose body, in my lesser educated opinion.

The label art on the bottle I’m recommending today is playful and fun (an aggressive shark to promote a wine that has an old-fashioned reputation), and a good sign of where the industry of wine in America is at as far as ‘rules’. Like when to order a white and when to order a red. That has blessedly been out of vogue for a long time, allowing novices like me, and all the twenty-somethings of today, to relax and learn without feeling self-conscious. 

Enjoy! And let me know if you give it a try!

What I’m Sipping: Threadcount vs Quilt–Two Terrific Cabs

The Worth of Wine or Wine of Worth?

As a novice to the world of wines, I’m curious about an expensive vintage versus a less pricey one from the same winery. It seems unlikely to me that I would be able to tell the difference.

I decided to explore.

I’m blessed a group of friends who could be described in much the same way as a fine wine. The friendship is lush and pleasing, new flavors unfold and open over time, and the finish is lasting. We’ve known each other since high school and have been vacationing together faithfully for 35 years. Strong vines with deep roots.

We gathered last fall which isn’t our usual season together. The call was extended and empty nests gave us the opportunity to gather in the season of dying summer, dying leaves, and last hurrahs before the quiet of winter.

I purchased a bottle of Quilt Cabernet Sauvignon (on sale at Meijers for $64.99) and a bottle of Threadcount Cabernet Sauvignon (also on sale at Meijers for $29.99). Both come from Napa Valley’s Quilt Wines by maker Joe Wagner, a fifth generation wine maker who started at age nineteen on the Caymus vineyard. 

A blind tasting was set in motion when my husband, Dave, opened and poured the wine outside of our vision.

Sample One

We swirled and sniffed and swirled some more. Finally, we sipped. Here’s what we noted:

True enjoyment across all tasters. Lots of happy “uuummm’s”.

Fruit forward: plum, cherry and cranberry 

Spice (but what?)

Vanilla

Lush and smooth

As it opened, I felt we could name the spice: white pepper

We were so pleased with this wine that the suggestion was made to be practical and not open the other.

But we did.

Sample Two

Not as lush, but very soft

Earthy

Stemmy

Fruit second: dark fruits, blackberry, plum

Hints of leather and cocoa

Opened nicely, gaining a silky feel 

Strong tannins on the finish

Enjoyment vs More Expensive

Immediately, three out of four indicated that the first sample was better and was likely the more expensive wine. 

I did not prefer the vanilla in the first sample, even though I did enjoy this wine, overall. 

However, as we sat and chatted, one participant did as I have done at tastings. She initially loved the first sample, but as time passed, she caught herself reaching more often for the second wine as her palette adjusted. She admitted that, in fact, there was something about the first wine that was “too much” for her.

That’s when I felt certain that the second sample was the more expensive wine. Wines with a higher skin to juice ratio reveal more tannins and have more earthiness and minerality. It usually requires an older vine to achieve (although most California vines aren’t considered ‘old’), and the grapes are harvested in smaller quantities. Smaller quantity means higher price.

Was I right?

The Results

 After discussing what we liked, we then weighed in on which we thought would be the most expensive. In the end, the vote was split.

Dave revealed the results: sample one was the less expensive, Threadcount, and sample two was Quilt. 

So, is it worth it to buy the more expensive wine? Threadcount is impressive in that it is full-mouthed and a crowd pleaser. The price point is still higher than what I would spend day-to-day, making it a fitting purchase for a gathering when you want to bring something special that all can enjoy.

It’s not likely I would spend again for Quilt even though I preferred it. Life is too short. If I’m going to spend that much for a consumable, I’d try something new (and tell you all about it).

The Worth of the Gathering

When I look back on the moment, I wonder how much influence our setting, our gathering, our tribe had on the taste of the wine? 

I find that when I am surrounded by warmth, comfort, good conversation, and laughter, the wine shines. Any wine. Four longtime friends, with the perfect skin to juice ratio, showing up to buoy each other in the dying season of fall (and being spoiled by chef Dave)—just about anything would have been a delight. This teacher’s lesson? The worth of the wine is embedded in the worth of the gathering. Focus first on your gathering and the wine won’t matter.

What I’m Sipping: Que Syrah, Syrah

Whatever will be, will be

 Whatever will be, will be. This attitude is a tough swallow for me. I like to analyze things rather than simply accept. Yet, it gives me pause. There’s freedom in learning to accept. I’ll ponder that while I sip.

And if you can hear the song in your head, then you now know how to pronounce the wine I’m recommending.

I had the pleasure of meeting my sister in Chicago where she was babysitting her grandson, Jude. I joined the fun of visiting parks, playing in the sandbox, and learning very specific details about trucks. (“That’s an exhaust pipe,” the two-year-old said as he pointed to the tiniest gray tube on his plastic truck.) Jude’s parents were visiting Napa Valley. When my niece, Karen, returned, she gave me a bottle of Syrah, a wine I knew nothing about. Karen’s advice from the sommelier: “really let this one breathe.”

Bouchaine‘s Hyde Vineyard Syrah

What I, as a novice, noticed:

Here’s what the pros said: spicy, stemmy, earthy red. Layered and complex. Structured with lush black fruit, lavender and licorice. A hearty wine.

I caught the licorice, and I did think it was floral, but I couldn’t name it.

Wine Folly says Syrah generally tastes of black olive, bacon fat (ummm…I did not catch that), cocoa powder and white pepper.

Bouchaine’s Syrah was simply terrific, and I wholly recommend it. If you get a little tired of your usual cab, Syrah, in general, is a pleasant diversion. That said, while I strongly recommend this wine, either for yourself or for an impressive gift (thank you, Karen), it is pricey.

With that in mind, I’ve gathered some notes on two more Syrah’s.

First, Les Jamelles Syrah, Pays D’OC–for a simpler taste

Pays D’OC indicates the region on the southern coast of France where this and many other wines are made.

We recommend this one because it will be a crowd pleaser with its simplicity. In fact, the company itself strives for, “wide appeal”.

The professionals say to be sure to catch the scent of violets. I smelled mushrooms which sounds odd, but I came across several wine reviews describing Syrah as “forest floor”.

I found this French Syrah at Sendik’s Grocery Store. Interesting to note, this store has a robust wine section, but they only carry this one Syrah. That said, wine experts are referring to the grape as the grape of the future. Here’s an opportunity to get ahead of the trends and try something others, perhaps, have not.

I paid $12.99 for it, so it’s a good value.

The Alpha Montes Syrah, 2018

I decided to go to a larger seller to see if the Syrah selection would be larger. It was not. However, I believe I discovered a gem, and so I give you my final recommendation. 

This one is a product of Chile. I paid $14.99 for it at Discount Liquor and see that Total Wines carries it for the same price. On the nose, this one is more complex, like the California version. It’s stemmy, earthy, and opens more.

The pros say this wine smells of violets, cured ham (again with the bacon), and leather. On the tongue, ripened black berries, figs, toffee and coffee, with a long finish.

At this price point, to get this level of complexity, the Montes Alpha Syrah may be the wine to pick up, particularly as the season changes to fall and we look into the fate of the months to come—Que Syrah, Syrah. 

Syrah vs Shiraz

Upcoming Annotations: When I was at Discount Liquor, I had to ask the wine pro where the Syrah was hiding. He took me to an aisle filled with Shiraz. Um. I clarified I wanted Syrah. He curtly replied, “Same grape” then pointed to this one, single Syrah. Don’t worry; I’ll research the Shiraz… and get you the notes.

_{Safety Notice: the research on Syrah was conducted over the course of several weekends and with other sippers. No one was hurt in the consumption of this alcohol.}

What I’m Sipping: THE PRISONER

For years, I’ve heard people talk about dry January as a sort of healing or reset after the overindulgence of the holidays. However, this year I am hearing people talk about a no-spend January instead. With interest rates hitting record highs and people carrying shadow debt on buy now, pay later platforms, it’s no wonder. 

Trying a pricey wine may not be the move. But what if that pricey wine can be found in a half bottle?

Last month, my husband, Dave, and I celebrated my birthday. We went to a bed and breakfast in Madison located right by the Badger’s stadium. The inn has a traditional Tudor feel with criss-cross metal lattices in the windows, rich wood wainscoting, art-deco touches and Madison-iconic artwork throughout. We had dinner reservations, so after a day of hanging out on State Street we settled into our room to change and to have a glass of wine. 

Dave brought along a half bottle of The Prisoner because he wanted something nicer for my birthday but knows I am troubled when he gets too spendy. I live the Spoiled Wife Life and have to occasionally put the breaks on him. Additionally, we don’t finish a bottle in a one night trip so this way there is no waste. A half is the perfect move.

How Did We Rate It?

The Prisoner 2019 is a red blend that retails from their website for $52 but can be found at Total Wines for $31. We picked up the half bottle at Sendik’s Grocery Store for $21.

As two wine novices, here’s our assessment of The Prisoner:

Color: Dark plum. Definitely opaque.

On the nose: I was immediately struck by the minerality of the wine (Dave said graphite). Additionally, the presence of dark berries was clear. The more we swirled our glass and took our time with it, this wine really opened. 

On the tongue: Dry but not too dry. Dark berries, smooth, luscious and full bodied. With hesitation, I said pomegranate in addition to the dark berries.

I would call this a wine drinker’s wine–complex and interesting. 

What Did the Pros Say? 

The Prisoner is this wine company’s flagship wine. It’s a fruity wine with hints of raspberry, pomegranate (yes!), coconut, vanilla (oops on both of those) and black berries (yes!).

The pros called it smooth and luscious (Got it!).

This red blend is inspired by the Italian immigrants who came to the Napa region. It’s an uncommon blend of Red Zinfandel, Cabernet, Petite Sirah, Syrah and Charbano.

The label art is inspired by Francisco Goya, a Spanish artist, who had an etching called Le Petit Prisonnier. Goya’s art protested imprisonment and other atrocities of the Spanish War. In the end, The Prisoner Wine Company in Napa created their line of wines and the and use the art on their label as a platform to highlight oppression and the need for prison reform in the United States.

The Prisoner is very popular, even enjoying a “cult-like” following.

We recommend The Prisoner if you are a true lover of reds and feel sometimes unsatisfied by wines that aren’t interesting enough. And if you’re saving money this January, go for the half bottle!

What I’m sipping this week: BARONE MONTALTO ITALIA CABERNET SAUVIGNON and DEALCOHOLIZED ARIEL AND CHATEAU DIANA

A Lovely Indulgence–and a Thoughtful Step Back

FIRST, THE INDULGENCE: BARONE MONTALTO ITALIA CABERNET SAUVIGNON

I picked up this wine at an Italian specialty grocery store in Milwaukee. The color is a red that leans brown, always a good sign that I will enjoy a little spice. Upon tasting, sure enough, there is baking spice to this wine, which is what I love about an Italian (or French) wine. Additionally, I found it to have a full flavor of plum and blackberries. This wine is dry but not overly so. Like a few others I have recommended, it would please a variety of palettes at your gathering. While I did not find this at a chain grocery store, it can be found at larger liquor stores. The price point from my grocer was $17.99, but I’m seeing online that you can find it for less.

My annotations from the experts: This wine is a Southern Italian Red. Grapes from this region get a lot of sun, and the soil is dry. This allows the grapes to reveal flavors of baking spices like nutmeg and cloves along with some hints of tobacco. (See, I couldn’t name that baking spice, but now I know!) Dark fruit flavors are common to the region, but so are the red flavors of raspberries and cranberries which I definitely picked up on. As is also common to wines from this region, this one is bold, soft, more smooth than tannic, and leans dry. I did find one reviewer who said if you’re serious about reds you can skip this one, but my husband and I both disagree, especially if you want a crowd pleaser for your celebrations. Of further benefit, Southern Italian wines are often less expensive than wines from the Northern Region.

NOW THE THOUGHTFUL STEP BACK: DEALCOHOLIZED ARIEL AND CHATEAU DIANA

The next few weeks represent a time in America of letting go. We lose our minds a bit with spending, eating, decorating, staying up late, and yes, drinking. Then January 2nd rolls around, and we are left to assess the damage. Concerns about all kinds of wellness set it.

As we know, I’m passionate about writing, wine and wellness. So how do I rectify wine and wellness? First, according to research of Blue Zones around the world, Centenarians often have one glass of wine a day. (Remember: Blue Zones are spots around the world that have been the subject of much research due to their high volume of people who live over 100.) Medical Research is now starting to confirm that the end-of-day social and relaxing aspects of coming together over wine is beneficial. But what most Americans need to think about is volume…one. One glass of wine. (Some research is saying two is okay for men.) This is hard to manage at the holidays as we travel from place to place, party to party. Hard to manage as we lean into alcohol to assure a reduction in social anxiety or attempt to manage expectations and disappointments. (See last week’s wellness blog ;).) 

Here’s my trick in party situations. I keep a bottle of dealcoholized wine on hand. This is different from a no-alcohol wine. Dealcoholized wine is made using the normal processes in good wine making. After the wine is completed, it is taken through steps to remove the alcohol. Why is that important? De-alcoholized wine maintains some of the flavor of traditional wine and creates a more satisfying sip. Exciting to me is that it also keeps what is good for us in wine–antioxidants. Antioxidants are cancer fighters. Imagine a hero in your system attacking those radical cells that want to do us harm. Antioxidants come from colorful fruits and vegetables like grapes (and blueberries, broccoli, apples and so on).

I start a party with a glass of wine. As happens at good parties, my glass may be topped off a time or two. Ever conscious of my heart and the medications I take, I may subtly (I don’t want to judge), or sometimes not so subtly (why not share?) switch to a dealcoholized wine. I remain cozy within that satisfaction of participation, of holding lovely stemware, as I chat, without continuing to consume that which will no longer be good for me.

Other benefits? De-alcoholized wine is lower in sugar, calories, and carbs. There are many out there, and I’ve only tried a few, but Ariel is highly rated as a taster’s favorite. The wine is owned and operated by J. Lohr, so the grapes come from the same estate as some of their highly rated wines, grown on California’s Central Coast.

Does it taste like wine? Not completely. But for me, at least, it does the trick I need it to do.

As you’re stocking up for the celebrations between now and New Year’s, I say supplement your stock with a few of these. And, please, let me know if you find one you like. I’m still learning.

What I’m sipping this week: Samas Isola Dei Nuraghi 2022—Perfect for Thanksgiving

Don’t be intimidated. I don’t know how to pronounce it either. 

FIRST A STORY: HOW DID I FIND THIS WINE?

A few weekends ago, my husband, youngest daughter, and I ate at one of our favorite restaurants in Milwaukee’s Third Ward. Onesto’s serves modern Italian dishes with handmade pastas and fresh ingredients as locally sourced as possible. The restaurant sits in a historic building with a charming floor that slants toward a back corner, cream and rust brick walls that exude a rustic warmth, and accordion windows that feel like thee spot to be on a warm day. 

I was in the mood for a white wine. For me, it’s not about what I eat, it’s the mood of my palette. I randomly selected a Vermentino—a wine of never heard of. How else am I going to learn?

When it arrived, I told my daughter and husband that it was not as tart, not as strong in green pepper flavorings as a Sauvignon Blanc, yet somehow reminiscent of one. Also, it was not as buttery as a Chardonnay. I called it light, bright, gentle and refreshing. 

Later, my husband looked for a Vermentino at the grocery store and came home with this Samas Isola Dei Nuraghi, 2022. It is actually a white blend of 80% Vermentino and 20% Chardonnay. 

It’s a bright, golden color–very pretty! I have a hard time catching scents from white wines, but I would describe it as crisp, maybe an apple smell. On the tongue it is light on the front, but acidic on the finish.

So how good is my palette with whites? I checked with the tasteful folks who rank wines. The pros say this wine has a lemon-lime fragrance and taste. Ah. I got that it was tart and acidic, but I didn’t go with citrus to explain. That’s good learning.

One pro said, “honey nut lingers on the tangy close.” 

Another expert called the fragrance floral, and I missed that too. I always catch floral with reds and need to understand why I smell so much from a red and so little from a white.

Finally, another said the taste was apple with honeydew melon. This was my, “That’s it!” moment. I could not have named melon, and yet there it was. I can feel my vocabulary expanding. )

WHAT IS A VERMENTINO?

It is made from a grape grown mostly in Sardinia. And do you know what Sardinia is? A village on an island off the west coast of Italy, AND a Blue Zone.

I’m captivated by Blue Zones. Expect some Blue Zone Annotations in future blogs.

It’s a name given to researched areas of the globe that have high numbers of Centenarians, or people over 100 years of age. Researchers look for factors in a region that may be keeping the people there healthy. Perhaps it’s the grapes. 

In terms of body, a Vermentino is listed closely to a Sauvignon Blanc, as I suspected, but is not as far down on the body list as a Chardonnay, hence not as oaky in flavor. 

I think this blend is really pleasant, and even though it has more body than sweeter whites, it will be a crowd pleaser at your holiday celebrations. I would recommend this white with your Thanksgiving turkey because it’s a good contrast to oily meats (the dark meat of your turkey) and to the heavy side dishes of a traditional Thanksgiving meal. And you guessed it—it’s affordable. Our local Sendik’s sells it for $14.99.

That said, when the turkey moment comes for me, I’ll select my wine based on my mood.

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What I’m sipping this week:

Cerro Anon is a Spanish wine. I don’t know much about Spanish wines, but (and you’ll see a pattern here) it was on sale–$8.99. On the nose I picked up on an earthy smell and a spice, (that’s as specific as I can be at this point in my learning—maybe it’s tobacco). I know instantly from the bouquet that I am going to like this wine. The color is pretty; a garnet shade like a pinot. On the tongue, it is tart and I am also picking up on black berries. It’s not too dry but also not too fruit forward. It’s earthy without being chewy. I want to call that balanced, but I don’t know if that is the correct term. 

With some research, I learned that this Spanish wine has flavors of black raspberry and cherry (I got the black berry part correct!)

The bottle says this wine is loamy. I love the sound of this word. 

Loamy: fertile soil of clay and sand.

So, earthy, right? Are earthy and loamy the same thing or is there a flavor difference? Good thing I have the time to take the notes…I’ve got a lot of learning to do!

I recommend this wine for a few reasons. It’s great on the nose. It’s balanced in flavor. If you like something lighter, like a pinot, but you still want it to pack a little punch with complexity, this is it. And best of all—we’ve been finding it on sale for $8.99.

One caution: It didn’t keep well once opened. So, if you sip (rather than finish) a bottle over a few days as I do, you may notice that the flavor falls apart a bit over time. 

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What I’m sipping this week: 2020 Headline Alexander Valley Cabernet Sauvignon. 

I like to pretend I’m sophisticated with wine. As such, I attempt to describe wine before I learn anything about it. I sipped… then described this wine as soft and silky, fruit forward, tart berries, richly fragrant with solid legs (sophisticated, right?). It’s a drinkable crowd pleaser easily picked up at a high-end grocery store. This wine could impress a hostess or dinner guests. 

Quick research agreed with me, saying the aromatics were very pleasing (I love when I’m right). I also learned that one can smell forest floor and sarsaparilla. My nose isn’t that sophisticated. I’m just learning about earthy notes. I didn’t catch “forest floor” (I’ll have to gather more notes on this). I’ve also never smelled sarsaparilla, but apparently it smells a bit like root beer or burnt carmel. Upon further sniffs (and sipping), I do smell the root beer part! 

Some sellers have this wine listed for $30.00 a bottle, but my husband and I frequently find it at high-end grocers for $19.99. I recommend this one. Fully.